Pierrick of VintagePlantations.com chocolate, and very good chocolate, wrote of his door installation as follows:
Mike; Monsieur Mike of the doors….
I received the doors and all the accessories in perfect condition. Thank you.
The strand board door would not fit properly in its grove, because of the boat imperfections. Geometry is never followed to a “t” anywhere in the world and definitely not by a boat we all believe are of the female gender.
I sanded down the left door part which fit in the grove making sure I kept the same radius. I read and rereda your instructions and followed them. You have done a great job and form the look of your designs and nuances I could tell you had anticipated all the current issues which could have raised from setting these doors on inclined hinges. Your experiences and professionalism is underlined at every curve of these doors. Thickness of wood and craftsmanship in the details comforted me in choosing you for making these doors. I would be happy to be a source of reference if you need one. It took me 4 hours to do the job , because I wanted the doors to be completely equidistant by one millimeter to each side of the frame. It could be done in two hours. The colors of the wood you pick matches completely the frame. I have no idea how you managed to match the wood based on just one picture. .. Experience and intimate knowledge of the type of wood Catalina uses probably.
I will send you a picture once I am done. The little wood round cover parts are to cover the screws in the wooden door hinges?
Hopefully my chocolate smeasures up to your craftsmanship and you will not be too disappointed.
I love, love, love my doors.
If you are interested in a satin finish requiring low maintenance then an oil finish is the way to go. After the penetrating oil for two coats and plenty of drying time for two days, flood the surface with oil and wet and just lightly with 320 sandpaper touch the surface all over. This is meant to be done quickly as each successive coat will catch any areas unsanded from last time. The trick is to wipe back each coat until there are no streaks but a sheen left. This allows you to not have to worry about not having hit all the areas carefully with sandpaper. Each coat should dry for one day. I like three coats, five with the penetrating oil, for doors, five for a cockpit table, 9 for an interior table and 12 for floors. The floors will never soil and after 10 years with just soap and water will look like the day you put them down. The tables can be maintained with Lemon Pledge. The best trick is sanding with Watco Dark Wax after all the oil coats with 600 grit paper for the interior table. It will look like a museum piece.
After all the sanding and polishing to the desired finish often I will apply a wax as not only a sealer but as a non stick surface. Too often a hinged leaf may make contact with the varnished edge of the main table. The problem is that the two finished surfaces will stick and bond to each other ruining the finish. A waxy surface cures that. All so when shipping many surface may contact each other. Certainly paper towel can be put between the surfaces but a coat of wax just gets rid of the worry of the paper sticking as the new surfaces continue to degas. Watco Dark finishing wax adds to any of the oil or varnished surface a degree of a rich finish even though the way is labeled as satin.
In getting the best out of an oil finish I will apply two soaking coats of oil as discussed before. My favorite is to sand the third coat of teak oil lightly with 320 all over without concentrating in any area. 320 black wet dry can be used with the best cutting results and back filling of pores wiping the residual off leaving a light sheen with no streaks. Any bleed back will be dulled eliminating the little shining spots with the next sanding. Two more coats later I will go to 400 and then 600 two more coats later. I have never found power sanding of any sort in this case to help in time and quality. Subsequent to the final coat of oil wax may be used as discussed before from WATCO. The dark satin floats the paper and allow for efficient cutting with a 1000 grit paper back by a small sponge. Try it as you will be amazed and never turn back.
One of the most critical parts of building up the oil finish is to let the wet sanded layer dry a little increasing the thickness of the coat before wiping to a no streak finish. You must leave a sheen behind as much as possible for good build up but at the point you leave streaks it is hard to make sure you remove them with the next coat. This is especially true as you use finer and finer grit. In the beginning 320 will correct most evils quickly while 600 grit later will only polish streaks left behind. Waiting 24 hours between coats is best.